The properties and cosmetic efficacy of native collagen are linked to the maintenance of its triple helical structure.
The insoluble, native collagen fibers can absorb high amounts of liquid like a sponge and form a barrier film on the skin. They serve as a delivery system for soluble collagen components and can gradually release moisture and active ingredients efficiently during the entire application. The high water-binding capacity and barrier film on the skin can reduce the transepidermal water loss. Both effects cause increased hydration of the stratum corneum, which lasts for hours. The use improves skin smoothness and gives the skin a pleasant feeling.
Native Soluble collagen molecules remain on the skin surface (due to their size). They have an extremely high water-binding capacity, too. This characteristic helps to infuse the skin with moisture to strengthens the skin’s moisture binding capacity, support the smoothing of fine lines and wrinkle and promote an even complexion
Soluble collagen peptides are skin-identical and are recognized by the skin. They are released upon activation and can penetrate into the skin due to their much smaller molecular size. Collagen peptides such as matrikines have been shown to promote skin renewal by affecting signaling cascades for collagen synthesis, tissue remodeling and restoration.
[1] Datenblätter zum Einsatz von Wirkstoffen in kosmetischen Mitteln, GDCh, Arbeitsgruppe Kosmetische Mittel, Proteine- Teil 1 Native Proteine tierischen Ursprungs
[2] Katayama et al. A pentapeptide from type I procollagen promotes extracellular matrix production”, J. Biol. Chem., 1993, 268:9941-9944.